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RBL

Beijing

Dong an Men Dajie 53,
Dongcheng
Beijing
Tel: 010/6522-1389

Handel Lee's latest venture is run by a team whose credits read like a food critic's naughty dream: Nobu, Megu, Sushi Yasuda, and Tetsuya's. RBL stands for Restaurant Bar Lounge, although the experience is LRB, a less catchy acronym, particularly to Australian ears. An unmarked opaque glass door opens into a stunning minimalist lounge, where Simon Wang delivers impeccable cocktails, then on to the main event, the Japanese fusion restaurant. Two tasting menus are offered („450/$56 and „650/$81), with recommended wine pairings. New world wines dominate the wine list, with a respectable selection available by the glass. Few restaurants in Beijing can claim to offer a dining adventure; RBL does. Not every creation hits the spot, but many are sublime, particularly the sakura smoked duck sushi, yukke marinated wagyu beef, and creme brūlee with orange marmalade. An anonymous, genuinely international dining experience is rounded off with live music in The Icehouse



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