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Per Se
PER SE
New York
10 Columbus Circle,
New York,
NY 10019
Tel: +1 2128239335,
Fax: +1 2128239399
Everyone should have dinner for six hours once in a lifetime. And everyone should do it by the hand of Thomas Keller, the superchef who has been wowing West Coast diners at The French Laundry in California wine country for a decade now. French Laundry fans will surely recognize the signature blue doors at the restaurant's entrance, but will be thwarted when they try to walk through them. The room as a whole feels like a luxe hotel lobby, a place where diners will be comfortable spending time; but it's the food that will make them truly reluctant to leave. Menus change daily so there is no guarantee of finding the same dishes twice, but past masterpieces representing the whimsy are a tiny salmon and crème fraîche ice cream cone to start; rice crispies adding crunch to foie gras au torchon with peach jelly; and a summer truffle pop tart paired with a deviled, truffled egg. Waiters shaving lime zest over jicama noodles; six kinds of sea salt set on a small silver platter; and custom-made china are among the flawless, and delightful, service details. But the gorgeous flavor combinations, like butter-poached lobster on melted leeks with red beet essence; tiny rounds of briny Malpeques, immersed in a creamy tapioca pudding, topped with saline osetra caviar; achingly tender beef served with marrow crisps; and a nearly life-changing olive oil custard with tomato confit, steal the show. The 500-bottle wine list does its part to astound as well, a true connoisseur's collection with plenty of affordable choices and a welcome selection of over 100 half bottles. Desserts are just the beginning to the end of the seemingly nonstop procession. They are followed by mignardises, chocolates, cookies packed to-go and the lingering memories of what portends to be one of the world's finest dining experiences.
www.frenchlaundry.com/perse/perse.htm
info@thomaskeller.com
Cuisine: Modern Emaerican
Ambience: formal Fine Dining
Groups: Private Rooms avail
Special: celebrity Chef, Star Spotting