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>> La Famiglia
8 S. Front St.
Tel: +1 215-922-2803
This is the first restaurant of the Sena family (Panorama), and it remains a civilized beacon of light amid the upstarts of Old City. It is suavely chic, in the Florentine mode, mellowed by exposed brick walls and beamed ceilings. Candles gleam, fresh flowers grace the tables, but service can seem unconcerned for non-regulars. Ordering from the comprehensive list of Italian wines, will definitely break the ice, however. Wine it should be, because the restrained cuisine of the north of Italy will only be enhanced by it. Agnoletti with a light glaze of tomato, penne with just a light toss of onions, proscuitto and Romano cheese, fat mussels, and crispy calamari with a Diable sauce, would all glow a golden Fiano del Avellino. Veal is exceptional, whether done with a light dusting of cheese, or with fresh tomatoes and basil, or in a chop with mushrooms. A Barbera would do very nicely with any meats. Desserts from the cart may often resemble the monument to Vittorio Emmanuel in Rome in their embellishment, but some, like a light pastry filled with cream, are quite nice.
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