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DIE QUADRIGA
Berlin
Hotel brandenburger hofKurfurstendamm
Berlin
Tel: +49 30214050
This is the kind of place so hushed, so "correct," and so seamlessly upscale that even when the president of Germany shows up (as he does in an informal and unofficial capacity), it barely makes a ripple in the smooth and well-rehearsed service rituals. The setting is a cherry-paneled room on the lobby level of a hotel (the Brandenburger Hof) that's a long urban trek from the restaurant's namesake, the four-horsed statue (Die Quadriga) atop the Brandenburg Gate, in faraway Berlin Mitte. Meals are served atop snowy linen to no more than 28 clients at a time, each seated on a chair designed in 1904 by Frank Lloyd Wright. Wines are available by the bottle or by the glass, and menu items vary with the season and the inspiration of the chef. The best examples might include a half lobster served with orange-flavored chicory and slices of Parma ham; foie gras accompanied by Riesling grapes and Perigord truffles; strips of sole with Dublin Bay prawns served with exotic root vegetables; and saddle of venison stuffed with walnuts, black pudding, and pine nuts. Desserts manage to be memorable; one reader raved about the pineapple and chocolate torte served with a parfait of passionfruit
Cuisine: MODERN EUROPEAN
Ambience: FORMAL
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