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Clio
CLIO
Boston
370 Commonwealth Ave.
Boston,
Massachusetts 02215
Tel: +1 617-536-7200
Since its debut, Clio and its chef Ken Oringer---who cut his teeth in San Francisco's trendsetting fusion kitchen, Silks---have perched at the top of Boston's high-end dining scene. Peter Niemitz's dynamically appointed room juxtaposes leopard-skin rugs and plush banquettes with a neutral palette to create a mood that's serene but not staid---a fitting backdrop for a similarly alchemical menu. Combining the tastes of East and West is not exactly novel these days, but Oringer prances between French and Asian cuisines with a Zen-like calmness and technique that can border on wizardry. Signature dishes include the lacquered foie gras and butter-basted lobster---with ever-changing accompaniments such as hibiscus and dehydrated honey; throughout the menu, Oringer's fondness for and way with exotica are on display. Similarly precious sensibilities show themselves at adjacent Uni, his tiny, exquisite sashimi bar.